Salzburg, Austria

Thursday, September 21, 2012

Salzburg! Oh the woes one feels when loving something unexpectedly. I would hate to deem a favorite amid all the breathtaking views and unique experiences that I have had in my time here, but Salzburg at this point just might be my favorite place I have visited. Perhaps it is the love I have housed for the Sound of Music since a young age, or the rolling hills topped with pointed mountains with teal-blue streams winding throughout the countryside, the knowledge that my grandmother grew up there until she was forced to flee during World War II, the excitement that my mom was born in the country, or maybe simply the hospitality of the people I encountered in my time there, but I love Austria, and I recognized this love in Salzburg.

Leopold's Palace

But yet, the trip was short. Only a twenty four hour stop to break up our train ride to Dachau, my time was quick but perfect. Though we arrived in rain, Thursday morning greeted us with beautiful Austrian weather. Kacey, Allyson, Melanie and I hopped on a Panorama tour bus and hoped for the best, of many potential, Sound of Music tours. At first unsure of our choice as we met our tour guide, we quickly learned to love his theatrical delivery of information about the music, Salzburg, and Austria. In a sing-songy voice he announced our first destination, the movie’s backyard of the Von Trapp family home: Leopold's Palace. The lake where the famous falling out of the boat scene took place, divided the backyard from one of the tree covered bike paths that the children rode bikes down. The water which fills the lake is glacier water. When the scene was shot of the children and Maria falling out of the boat, Gretel popped out underneath of the boat, rather than the opposite side of Maria. For this reason, the crew had to perform the scene one more time in the frigid water. The gazebo, which was our next stop on the tour, had been moved from its location in the backyard.

The Sound of Music tour bus!

Our tour guide and bus driver

The picture of Hellbrunn Palace I tried to snap from the bus

THE Gazebo

The movie used two different houses to comprise the Von Trapp family home. The backyard described above was used because the family who owned the house only allowed the use of their home outside. This home had the magnificent backyard, while the other a grand entryway, so both houses were used and done so in a way unbeknownst to viewers. Leopold's Palace is in a gorgeous location. From it you could see the Hohensalzburg fortress, wildlife, and the Austrian Alps. For the movie, the famous gazebo was built originally for added decoration in the backyard. It wasn’t until a producer had the idea to move scenes inside the gazebo that it was used. Since filmmakers were unable to get the lighting right in the actual gazebo, another gazebo, with more room inside, was built in Los Angeles. The original gazebo was not intended to be saved; however, the family who owned the house where the backyard scenes were shot liked it so much Robert Wise, the producer, gave it to the family. Then we arrived at the gazebo’s new home, I noticed the smiles of every woman on the tour. Our guide told us that the reason we were no longer allowed to go inside was because several years ago, an 80 year old woman broke her hip while attempting to dance to and from each bench. The gazebo’s location was only a few hundred yards away from the front of the house, the Hellbrunn Palace. Sadly, due to time constraints, we were unable to walk down the bike and walking path to the front of the house. We did although get to drive past it twice. The inside of the house was made up of rooms from many different locations; the famous ballroom was modeled from an Austrian palace, but created in Hollywood.

Scenic overlook

Our bus tour then took a turn for the mountains and out of the valley. En route to the city of Mondsee, the town that holds the wedding chapel used in the movie is located, our tour guide shared interesting facts with us and points of interest. For example, there is one of three statues of Abraham Lincoln in the backyard of a university that we passed. This was given as a gift to the school; the others are location in Springfield, Illinois (dutifully so) and California. The beautiful Untersberg mountains which are visible from all of Salzburg are the ones in which Julie Andrews  is traversing in the opening scene, and then runs down in three minutes to get to the Nonnberg abbey, are 6000 feet high. These mountains are also the ones that the family was shown hiking over at the end of the film. Lucky for the real Von Trapp family, they took a train to escape to Switzerland. If they had done as though the family in the movie did, they would be heading straight to Germany.

Of these nuns Maria runs to join, the Mother Abyss was still the acting head of the abbey when Hollywood went to her seeking permission to use the location for shooting the film. Behind the abbey, the Hohensalzburg  fortress is etched into the mountains. This fortress took over 600 years to build. As you can see below, there are three very distinct styles of architecture; these come from three different archbishops who wanted their own style to be used.

Red Bull Europe Headquarters

On the way to Mondsee, we stopped for at a beautiful looking point. We also passed the very modern Red Bull Europe headquarters. The inventor of Red Bull is from Austria.

I felt so fortunate to have chosen the tour that we did upon arriving the small town of Mondsee, Austria. The authentic and genuine Austrian way of life was noticeable in every person we encountered and the pastel colored houses. The Mondsee Chapel, where the wedding took place was beautiful. I found a few souvenirs to take home to friends is my favorite place yet.  Allyson and I ate a delicious apple strudel with cream as our guide suggested to us: a real Austrian treat.

Mondsee Chapel

Our tour exited right into Mirabell Gardens. I don’t think I stopped smiling as I observed all the tourists with excitement in their eyes as the jumped and danced like the children do as they sing “Do Re Me.” My most memorable people I have met in my time thus far were a group of four women who all had an accessory made of curtain as part of their outfit. They were a group of best friends traveling Europe with their husbands and we met them in their most anticipated of stops: Salzburg.

Fountain in Mirabell Gardens

Posing with our curtain-clad friends

On our way out we made a quick stop in Mozart’s house to find we had to pay to go further inside and a stop inside the Marionette Theatre only to get kicked out. This is the theatre from which the movie producers got the idea for the “Lonely Goat” scene.  My time with Salzburg was short, but as I said goodbye to the YoHo Hostel —which played the Sound of Music in their television room daily— I knew I would be returning to the beautiful land of Austria.

Marionette Theatre

Marionettes